Ask around for “Baan Sanam Kwai” and the Thai folks will surely give you a puzzled look. That’s because that name is the original name of today’s Nang Loeng Market. The name was changed during Field Marshal Plaek Pibunsongkhram’s time as Prime Minister. The market was created during the reign of King Rama 5, making it over a century old, 112 years to be exact. Nang Loeng is also the first market on land in Thailand, and was the center point of commerce and entertainment much like Siam Square is today. Iconic buildings in the area include Nang Loeng horse track, Chalermthani Theater, and Prince Apakorn’s palace.

Although the entertainment in the area gathered a lot of people, it was mostly the food that brought them back. Nang Loeng market is known for the immense variety of food available, especially traditional and hard-to-find foods. Most shops and stalls have been around for decades, and their recipes and traditional method of cooking passed on from generation to generation. There are plenty of different foods and desserts which you must try.

To help you make your choice for lunch (or dinner), here are a few shops and stalls that are quite popular. If you want noodles you can choose between noodles with beef at Guay Tieow Nua Toon Nang Loeng (open since 1956), noodles with duck at Sor Sumran (stops selling if ducks run out so come early), egg noodles with minced crab or pork spare ribs at Bamee Rung Ruang, or Yentafo noodles at Ewe Yentafo (they have really good meatballs). For rice-based dishes, Kaow Kaeng Rattana offers a variety of dishes for you to choose from. Keep in mind that there are even more shops and stalls to choose from.

For dessert try Kamon Bueang(crispy panckaes) fromLoong Noy. The desserts resemble tacos, but the shell is made from mung beans and stuffed with either a sweet or salty filling. Kanom Thai Mae Somjit sells many desserts including Cassava with sweet syrup (Man Sampalung), a dessert that is hard to find. If you fancy Kanom Tarn (palm-fruit cake), Kanom Kluay (banana cake), and Kanom Sodsai (grated coconut pudding), head over to Nunta Kanom Thai shop. For traditional desserts based on the same recipe as Thong Yip, Thong Yod, and Foy Thong, Kanom Thai Mae Kwa probably has the best. On a hot day, refresh yourself with their Kao Chae Petchaburi. This dessert is simply rice in jasmine-scented water. After dessert, refuel yourself with coffee at Nang Loeng’s oldest coffee shop, Salon de Café.

The market is open two times a day, in the morning from 10.00 – 13.00, and again in the evening at 17.00 – 23.00. The day market has a lot more shops and stalls open. Nang Loeng market has plenty of visitors each day who come to eat, buy sweets, and shop. The delicious foods available here is what makes Nang Loeng so popular.    

Address : Soi 6, Nakhon Sawan Rd., Pom Prab Sattru Phai District, Bangkok 10100

GPS : 13.759683, 100.511967

Opening Hrs. : 10.00 – 13.30; 17.00 – 23.00

Best Time : During the morning

Highlight : Try out various hard-to-find foods and desserts

Activities : Sight-seeing/ Eating/ Shopping

CAR
Coming from Phetchaburi road, head towards Pitsanulok road then turn left into Nakhon Sawan Road. Cross the bridge over Krung Kasem klong. Soi 6 is nearby.

Coming from Thonburi, cross Pinklaow Bridge then continue onto Rachadamnoen Klang road until Phanfah. Head towards Nakhon Sawan road and you will come across the market.

BUS
Number: 5, 10, 53, 171. From Lanluang 2, 8, 44, 60